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Travel: November 1st, 2016 - December 15th, 2016

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On top of it all

The Kai Koko spa at Ti Kai Village has just two treatment rooms, but they’re transcendent, perched high on a cliff, overlooking the Caribbean.

Ti Kai means “little house” in Creole, and the cozy, boutique resort is a collection of 33 gingerbread-style cottages on a bluff above the popular beach, Anse Cochon. Ti Kaye has its own inviting open-air restaurant serving fresh seafood with Creole influences, a large, underground wine cellar and a pretty pool tucked among tropical flora. Guest rooms with balconies are staggered up the hill, looking out over trees to water. Each is like a treehouse escape — with a hammock. Eleven of the cottages also have private plunge pools.

At Kai Koko, each treatment room is in a separate building, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay. A Balinese massage, from a tiny but startlingly strong Balinese woman, starts with a choice of aromatic oils: lemongrass, papaya basil, chocolate, mint, ylang ylang or honey-vanilla. On the massage table, with your face in the rest, you look down at a hibiscus in a vase and a mirror strategically placed to reflect the view of the bay and beach. It is possibly the most wonderful treatment room I’ve ever visited, and that was certainly the only time I’ve kept my eyes open during a massage.